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OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS

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Old 13-04-2006, 11:34 PM   #1
BOOSTDEF
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Default AU into EF progress.

Hi,

Got the whole motor out in 3 hours.... Was good going and had no hassles at all. Only dropped the exhaust on the lightbulb next to my face.. but other than that, all good.

Now its up to the tricky part, modifying the K frame. Will make a start in the morning, and have some pics too... I searched everywhere and have not found one pic on anyone who has modified an EF or EL k frame....

Can anyone provide some pics on how far they modified the k frame??

I was thinking of going like _/-\_ on each of the front and back of the k frame so the sump will drop in. I will then reinforce it and weld it with a rod and metal sheets to hopefully make it unnoticable.

The bellhousings are different for EF and AU so i dont know whether to go with the 4 bolts or get an AU one tommorrow. Problem is i rang 6 wreckers and none of them will seperate from the AU box. Shame that.

Can anyone tell me if the BBM from teh AU is any better than the EF, have a choice of the two.

Will post pics tommorrow. Cheers. :Reverend:

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Old 13-04-2006, 11:48 PM   #2
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If u bought the motor from those guys who advertise on ebay, i'd just ask them. I'd also be very reluctant to chop into K frame although racecraft has done it and reinforced it and reckons its better than original.
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Old 14-04-2006, 12:00 AM   #3
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K frame ? :S don't you just have to move the front crossmember forward or grind the sump! nothing to do with K frame! I have helped do and AU into EA conversion and K frame wasn't an issue is EF/EL different ?

only the bottom 2 bolts won't line up on the bellhousing so you will still have 6 that do, just go with that and do them to like 100 nm
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Old 14-04-2006, 12:29 AM   #4
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EA to ED has mor clearance than the EF and EL k frame. So grinding the sump wont help..

Asked the guys I bought it off they said only 4 bolts line up. The top 4.

If its six ill just stick with the EF housing.

Attatched is a picture of the clearance issues i face. This is an AU sump which has been cut at an angle. They go straight down unmodified and it wont fit with only grinding the sump...

By the looks of that pic i will need to cut the little lip that is there and maybe some moreinto the thicker part of the k frame? Anyone know the actual amount to cut?
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Old 14-04-2006, 09:10 AM   #5
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why dont you look into modifying the sump as in that pic? probably less of a hassle, just unbolt it, measure it up and get it welded.
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Old 14-04-2006, 09:43 AM   #6
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the sump is cast alloy, whereas the k frame is mild steel, most DIY welders don't have the equipment for alloy.. Add to that it is EAster and no-one could do the job until Tuesday at best.. I just notched the k frame about 15mm and plated with 5mm flat bar

EDIt,, just read your question mate. Yes cut that lip off, then about another 10mm or so if you are using 5mm plate
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Old 14-04-2006, 12:08 PM   #7
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I'm currently installing an AU motor into my XH which is exactly the same setup as the EF. I've sent the sump away to be changed instead of cutting up the k-frame as personally I dont feel comfortable modding it. Last time I swapped an engine in this car, the guy doing the blue slip put it up on the hoist to inspect it and I have no doubt he'd fail it seeing mods to the k-frame. Like I said, thats my personal choice and I wish you luck.

The BBM manifold question interests me aswell. From what I can tell the AU sensors like the combined MAP/AIT operate differently to the EF/EL ones which means you'll have to use the EF BBM or atleast the EF upper. The plug on the ISC is different aswell but it might possibly just mean a plug swap on the loom. I'm happy to be corrected as I'd prefer to use the AU manifold if I can.
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Old 14-04-2006, 12:12 PM   #8
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just use the EF BBM, the AU one offers no flow gains, and would be a bit of a bigger to set up......
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Old 14-04-2006, 01:23 PM   #9
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aahh thats easier then, didnt feel like changing the rails over(if you even needed to)...

Yeh i would just simply mod the sump but ive only got a stick welder lol.. So no chance there.

So cut the lip, and then about 10mm into the thicker hollow part?? Is that for both front and back or will only the front need modding?

Thanks for the help
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Old 14-04-2006, 01:27 PM   #10
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only the front, then cut a length of flat bar the same length as the notch, weld it in BEOFRe you put the engine in
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Old 14-04-2006, 01:43 PM   #11
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ok thanks mate...

Now to the next Q, the cam angle sensors...

I see the AU one is different so I assume i need to change them over...

What is the process of changing these, and getting them out. Do i need to align it at tdc to put it in or anything? Whats the go? Or do i not need to change them at all?

Cheers.
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Old 14-04-2006, 09:15 PM   #12
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MOTOR IS IN.. WOOHOO.. 15mm clearance. Thanks for that racecraft i will show pics of what i did as ill make another thread of how i did it all.

Anyhow enough excitement, im still not finished.

The last hurdle is the cam angle sensors. I have taken the EF one off and need to put it into the AU motor. How do i go about putting the EF sensor into the dizzy hole??

I see there is a mark on the EF block where the little indent lines up on the sensor? Do i simply slot it in and align this mark up?? If there is one on the AU motor?

Or do i put a drill bit into the hole on the sensor and line the crank up at tdc and then slot it in?? Ive got no idea and gregory is not helping me with this one.
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Old 15-04-2006, 12:31 AM   #13
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heres the pics..

I cut the lip and then cut two vertical cuts at the width of the sump plus about 3cm each side. I then cut a horizontal line in the middle part and bashed the bottom part in and up. I then bashed the top part down which caused it to overlap.

Then the welder came out and i welded this with big strong welds(an hour of welding) and not even the biggest sledge gould budge it.

Cleaned it up and painted her up and i reckon itll take one very smart man to pick the difference. (Its getting engineered anyways lol) ..
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Old 15-04-2006, 08:45 AM   #14
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looks good!! good work
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Old 15-04-2006, 02:56 PM   #15
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cheers mate...

Box is lined up and its all back together.. just have to modify some extractors to fit the 3" exhaust(gonne run the motor in NA.. Dont wanna do another change lol)

And, is there any trick to getting the AU cam angle sensor thingy(the thing that drops into the dizzy hole) off?? It will turn but it wont go lateral?? bastard of a thing.

Then drop the inlet in and will see if she fires hehe..
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Old 15-04-2006, 02:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOSTDEF


And, is there any trick to getting the AU cam angle sensor thingy(the thing that drops into the dizzy hole) off?? It will turn but it wont go lateral?? bastard of a thing.

put a big screwdriver under it and lever it out...or else get someone to turn the motor while your doin it. It's the same as pullin a dizzy out.
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Old 15-04-2006, 03:05 PM   #17
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yeh i thought so, its just that the EF one came out a lot easier so i thought there may of been a trick to it.

Will just sweat a little more i suppose.

Thanks mate.
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Old 16-04-2006, 09:58 PM   #18
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well it was a lot easier than i thought... hehe started first kick and idled beautifully.

Can anyone tell me how much lighter the AU motor is to the EF?? The front of the car is a lot more bouncy and sitting about an inch and a half higher?? I couldnt understand how that could be.

And this is after its been for a lengthy drive so its no the angle of the wheels after dropping it off the jack hehe..
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Old 16-04-2006, 10:35 PM   #19
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I would of thought the AU engine was heavier.. The cast alloy sump weighs more than the tin pan the E series uses
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Old 16-04-2006, 10:44 PM   #20
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certainly felt a lot lighter on the crane... and i could move it a whole lot easier around the bay too... maybe i just had a few too many beers ;)

I also noticed that the AU motor turns over a lot more freely when cranking.. the cranking rpm is about double that of the old EF, i dunno why i just thought that was a good sign.
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Old 18-04-2006, 09:18 PM   #21
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Boosted do you know if its posible to just bolt an EF sump onto an AU block to avoid modifying the K-frame? Also will the EF ECU run the AU motor no worries? Or is an AU ECU required? I ask because I am looking at doing the same thing here shortly.
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Old 19-04-2006, 10:52 AM   #22
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EF sump wont bolt up matey. The internals of the AU will hit the sump and the bearings will need machining which is a no go IMO..

The K frame was not hard at all mate, you just gotta remember they are replacable so its no different to modifying anything IMO..

It will surprise you the difference in everything from an AU motor. 41mm valves certainly give the exhaust note a little more burble.

Use your EF manifold and everything runs perfect.

I would suggest you get an AU bellhousing if you can find one though. If my gearbox falls out because theres only 6 bolts that line up, ill let you know ;)
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Old 19-04-2006, 05:59 PM   #23
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Cheers mate, Sorry one last thing...The ECU, Can you use the EF one or do you need the AU one?
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Old 19-04-2006, 06:28 PM   #24
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ECU will bolt up fine with EF manifold.

You will need to change cam angle sensor over and then its all sweet.
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Old 20-04-2006, 12:39 AM   #25
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gearbox will be fine ive had AU motor in my EA for two and a half years now with
ED XR6 5 speed box and no prob's at all
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Old 20-04-2006, 03:07 PM   #26
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cheers man...
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