New project decision

[au350hp]

I am looking for a project car as I'm finished my Falcon. I really can't decide between something older like a Mustang thats easy to get parts for and a easy carby motor with few electronics OR something newer like a B series GT which is a much more technical car & I run the risk of having part problems down the track. As far as metal goes, I have seen as much rust in newer cars as well as old so that will come down to thorough inspection and a little luck. Thoughts?

[GO FURTHER]

Personally, between the two you mentioned, I'd go with an older Mustang.
So much easier not having to worry about emission controls, electronics, etc.

Nothing quite as nice as a fully restored older Mustang or American muscle car and will always be a head turner on the road IMO.

[Rallye Sport]

What do you want to get out of the project and what skills do you have already?
Want to learn welding and body, go old school.
If you want to learn about new school tech, mechanical wise, go modern.
I went old school for my latest project because I dig welding and body and still have alot to learn.
You forgot to mention the possibility of an Escort

[au350hp]

Originally Posted by Rallye Sport

What do you want to get out of the project and what skills do you have already?
Want to learn welding and body, go old school.
If you want to learn about new school tech, mechanical wise, go modern.
I went old school for my latest project because I dig welding and body and still have alot to learn.
You forgot to mention the possibility of an Escort

I have been looking in the trade rags & online at the few there is. If they were plentiful, I might be tempted, but a big block is calling. Maybe one day though, as I wifey & me are moving to the Blue mountains in the next 12 months. Some bloody good roads up there!

[Tonz]

agree with above

[Mechan1k]

B-series have plenty of rust issues in the engine bay/boot and rear window/roof area ... it will keep you busy.

But if it was my choice .... old skool muscle for me.

[stock1991]

I'd like to get an older Fairlane, pretty much anything in the Z series but that's just me

[au350hp]

Thanks Lads. Being frighteningly close to 50, I am much more at ease with older cars. Mustangs have always been a huge favourite & the amount here plus specialty stores make it an easy choice. My skill set is quite good but specialist stuff like paint, trans, major engine builds & diffs will go to pro's. I am thinking 69,70 models like mach 1 or a fastback. The next choice is to buy from USA or here. I don't mind LHD & after looking at Hemmings Car Sales & the prices here for comparable cars, the import option is not looking so bad.
Whatever choice, there is some big decisions ahead, but one thing is already locked in, she will be a big block.

[smally289]

At the end of the day you should get the car you want the most.
On a practical level though, you really can't go past an early Mustang. Every single part you can imagine is available and at relatively cheap price when compared to Oz cars.

[au350hp]

Originally Posted by smally351

At the end of the day you should get the car you want the most.
On a practical level though, you really can't go past an early Mustang. Every single part you can imagine is available and at relatively cheap price when compared to Oz cars.

I have just spent two hours comparing 1970 SB & BB prices here and in the states. Even with the exchange rate & import costs, there is some serious value available, especially privately. It appears since the new Mustangs have been selling like hotcakes, many owners of 60s & 70s Mustangs have put their prices up hoping to change new buyers minds. I would really appreciate your thoughts on the 1970 models if there is anything to look out for etc.

[Sar4890]

just make sure if you are getting one from the us make sure its had all its asbestos removed and documented as in another post other wise it can cost you more than you bargained for.also don't be tempted by 66-69 us falcons i love mine but parts are a pita .

[IanC]

There was a story in the West Australian a couple of weeks ago about customs pulling apart imported classic cars to search for asbestos in gaskets, brake pads, clutches etc. They were saying that it is costing the importers big money as they have to pay for their cars to be dismantled and then put back together again. Something to think about if you decide to get one from the States.

[au350hp]

Thanks men. I was aware something big has changed in the import game, just another ***** making up rubbish to make money most likely. We have more asbestos in our lives here in Oz than the Govt & authoritys are prepared to admit & its all because nobody wants to compensate those affected. Three men in my street have death sentences because of this & not one of them has a cent in damages. They are not much older than me (49) & also were all hands on types, in various trades etc. Most of us my age have already been exposed to it countless times doing renovations of sorts. Bloody tragedy.

[Mercury Bullet]

Originally Posted by Roostercam

Thanks men. I was aware something big has changed in the import game, just another ***** making up rubbish to make money most likely. We have more asbestos in our lives here in Oz than the Govt & authoritys are prepared to admit & its all because nobody wants to compensate those affected. Three men in my street have death sentences because of this & not one of them has a cent in damages. They are not much older than me (49) & also were all hands on types, in various trades etc. Most of us my age have already been exposed to it countless times doing renovations of sorts. Bloody tragedy.

Good on the government.
We don't need more asbestos here. It kills people!

Making up stuff to make money, really?
As someone said do your research and you won't have a problem.
Some people need to be saved from themselves.

[buggerlugs]

Originally Posted by Roostercam

I have just spent two hours comparing 1970 SB & BB prices here and in the states. Even with the exchange rate & import costs, there is some serious value available, especially privately. It appears since the new Mustangs have been selling like hotcakes, many owners of 60s & 70s Mustangs have put their prices up hoping to change new buyers minds. I would really appreciate your thoughts on the 1970 models if there is anything to look out for etc.

Be wary of the cars from the states. They don't panel beat. They bog. I imported a 69 Big Block fastback. Looked great and had it supposedly checked out. The amount of bog in the car was staggering...........
Don't buy one from where it snows either...........

[solarite_guy]

Originally Posted by Roostercam

I would really appreciate your thoughts on the 1970 models if there is anything to look out for etc.

I have had some Mustangs including a 1969 351W Mach 1 Toploader car that was my daily driver for a couple decades. Plus when I owned my panel beater shop we did some work on early Mustangs.

Electrical concern is mainly where the main harness runs through the firewall. Two potential issues. 1. The grommet where the harness goes through the firewall will get brittle at where/break down over time. The harness will then be at the mercy of the metal edge of the firewall. 2. The insulation over the individual wires within the harness may wear and short out against each other over time. If either of these conditions occur, you could lose your car.

Regarding rust, first I would say to be very careful of cars that have spent their lives on the eastern half, including the gulf region and north west of the US. Lot of humidity when it is warm and road salts when it is cold. I am not condemning these cars, just giving a word of caution.

Rust tends to attack floor panels, rear wheel wells toward the front, plenum, front subframe torque box

Of structural concerns are the shock towers. Though replaceable, items that help prevent cracking and also improve handling are a beefier than stock, single piece shock tower to firewall cowl export brace together with a monte carlo bar.

In general for overall driving enjoyment, upgrade bushings, transmission and motor mounts. Suggest replacing the old style steering rod end adjusters with something like the ones carried by Maier racing and a camber lock out kit as well. Also, highly recommend a set of Shelby style over ride traction bars. When it is time to replace the shock, the KYB gas shocks are very cost effective and help the chassis.

If you intend to drive it hard, I also highly advise something to limit tq induced engine rotation such as a cable or chain that runs from an accessory bolt on the front of the (LHD driver side) of the engine to a point on the front subframe rail.

If you get a toploader car, make sure the clutch linkage is in good working order.

Going BB with the FE 428 CJ would be a load of fun. The FE is a wonderful and rugged engine. Something to help with the handling and little power boost would be pulling off the original cast iron intake and saving it somewhere and replacing it with an alloy dual plane Edelbrock performer rpm dual plane intake. The intakes on the FE motor are extended in width to take up a portion of the area cylinder head casting normally do. The pushrods go through the intake not the heads. You will gain a substantial weight savings off the front with this swap.

Just a few thought off the top of my head.

Sounds like a great project to me.

Cheers.

[au350hp]

Interesting conversation with a mature aged bloke who imports US muscle cars, and mostly sticks to Mustang. He advised me to wait 12 months as the market is chaotic atm, mainly due to the influx of new Mustangs. People with older cars are pricing theirs for 10 or 15 grand cheaper than a new one & hoping to catch a buyer with the buy & watch it appreciate VS buy new & watch the value dive. (his words,not mine)

[smally289]

Originally Posted by Roostercam

I have just spent two hours comparing 1970 SB & BB prices here and in the states. Even with the exchange rate & import costs, there is some serious value available, especially privately. It appears since the new Mustangs have been selling like hotcakes, many owners of 60s & 70s Mustangs have put their prices up hoping to change new buyers minds. I would really appreciate your thoughts on the 1970 models if there is anything to look out for etc.

As some have said, it's risky bringing a car in from the states. I looked into it when I got mine & took the easy option of buying one already in Oz. Took a while but I found what I wanted at a reasonable price & was able to have it inspected before coughing up any money.
My advice to you is to join this forum https://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php
Lots of knowledgeable guys on there just like this forum, but all Mustang based. Do your homework & go shopping!
As far as the 70 model goes, nothing out of the ordinary to look for compared to any other car of the same age. If you are looking to convert from LHD to RHD then the 64-66 models are a lot cheaper to do due to the heater box setup compared to the 67-68 & 69-70.

[au350hp]

Originally Posted by smally351

As some have said, it's risky bringing a car in from the states. I looked into it when I got mine & took the easy option of buying one already in Oz. Took a while but I found what I wanted at a reasonable price & was able to have it inspected before coughing up any money.
My advice to you is to join this forum https://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php
Lots of knowledgeable guys on there just like this forum, but all Mustang based. Do your homework & go shopping!
As far as the 70 model goes, nothing out of the ordinary to look for compared to any other car of the same age. If you are looking to convert from LHD to RHD then the 64-66 models are a lot cheaper to do due to the heater box setup compared to the 67-68 & 69-70.

Local cars looking much more likely although I have relatives in the states who know their cars, the new costs are obscene compared to only a few years back. I have asked my USA relatives to keep an eye out for an abandoned project or a really motivated buyer with something special, then I may look for some loop holes in the import game. I am in NO hurry and will be buying with my head, not my heart. I have been reading up big on Mustangs & what inherit problems each model has. I have found Hemmings Car Sales an awesome site, not only for great cars, but excellent links to building & buying too. Going to that Mustang site now thanks. Would you remember what the costs involved in importing were when you were in the market? Cheers Cam

[smally289]

Originally Posted by Roostercam

Local cars looking much more likely although I have relatives in the states who know their cars, the new costs are obscene compared to only a few years back. I have asked my USA relatives to keep an eye out for an abandoned project or a really motivated buyer with something special, then I may look for some loop holes in the import game. I am in NO hurry and will be buying with my head, not my heart. I have been reading up big on Mustangs & what inherit problems each model has. I have found Hemmings Car Sales an awesome site, not only for great cars, but excellent links to building & buying too. Going to that Mustang site now thanks. Would you remember what the costs involved in importing were when you were in the market? Cheers Cam

Not off the top of my head, but I do recall someone saying they were looking at a car in the states for US$25k that worked out to nearly AUS$50k landed here.

Originally Posted by davenl5l

lhd is a pain in the a** especially overtaking

This is what I was expecting too, but in reality it took me about 20 minutes to get used to it & be comfortable. The day I picked up my Mustang I drove it 100km across Melbourne on a Saturday morning ..... talk about a baptism of fire!!

[jusTANG]

Bosskraft.com.au is an Mustang specialist/restorer now living and qualified for asbestos removal and certification. They also inspect and help with imports.

Having had my 66 since 2009 and researched a few years before that be careful with cars you consider. US opinions of whats good and how US repairs are done are very different to what Australia accepts.
Have seen many burnt even having them inspected by some comapanies. Have seen heaps of good stories to of imports of great cars. Think the worst and be happier with what you get.


Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[Hemihunter]

my 63-1/2 Falcon Sprint 4 speed original USA LHD is for sale at the moment -40K ono it may be worth considering against the mustang and sure is fun to drive, PM your email if interested in seeing it.

[OzJavelin]

I own four "old-school" American cars - '65 Chev Corvair, '69 AMC Javelin, '69 Plymouth Fury and '74 AMC Javelin - but still think that an early Mustang is a great car .. honest, reliable, great parts availability, modification potential, etc.
Sounds like a great plan .. go for it.

[Dauphin]

Maybe consider a 1971 or 1972 Mustang? They aren't as popular as 64 to 1970 but from what I saw on Wheeler Dealers they are starting to become more sought after. Something a little different, but still a classic Mustang.

[Vesper Martini]

Originally Posted by Dauphin

Maybe consider a 1971 or 1972 Mustang? They aren't as popular as 64 to 1970 but from what I saw on Wheeler Dealers they are starting to become more sought after. Something a little different, but still a classic Mustang.

One of the longest bonnets and Zero rear visibility with 351 Cleveland sound.

Great cars, IMO needs that fat tapering pinstripe to look the goods

[solarite_guy]

When I was younger I new a fella with a 71 429 SCJ. Of course is was modified and pretty impressive.

I recalled another thing the early Mustangs benefit from in the driving enjoyment category. A a steering box with hand file fit gears. Very tight and improved road feel. I actually converted my power steering to manual steering using the quicker ratio power steering box and file fit gears, a manual steering drag link and idle arm.

Today you can get newly produced steering boxes with needle bearings from outfits like Flaming River. I haven't had a chance to compare to the Global West rebuild with the file fit gears.

I had Global West rebuild the steering box and I just used Moog parts for the rest. I think I got the camber lock out kit from Maier racing and new hardened strut rod bushings from Global West. That made a good improvement too. These days there are newer designs to replace the strut rod an bushing, but more track oriented.

[davenl5l]

lhd is a pain in the a** especially overtaking

[Iggle Piggle]

Drove a LHD De Ville from Radelaide to Mt Gambier and back - found I just had to sit back a little further than normal from the vehicle I was about to pass for visibility, no real issue and quickly adapted.

Felt like that car was longer than the trucks I was wallowing past.

[Dauphin]

If you look at the engine bay there's like 10 plus inches of just dead empty space between the grille and the radiator which you could fit some extra batteries into.

One could always make an Eleanor replica:



But in the end I'd prefer something like this based on looks alone:

[OzJavelin]

Yep .. I'm a big fan of the "big" Mustangs .. (own a '74 Javelin which is the AMC equivalent)

Thought of a first generation Cougar?