hunting 10- 20 rwkws more.. - Page 2

**Stav** · 31-12-2005, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonbays

If you really want to see the big numbers a DEV5 cam and race head from JMM will see you getting 175rwkw on Croydens dyno for sure.

With your 3.7 diff and hi stall i will bet that would get you into mid 14's on a good day.

I reckon even now if you ran a cool dry still winter wednesday night WSID street meet you would get a 14.

The problem is the TS mph is still a little low you need more power or less weight.

My new years resolution is to lose some weight so how about you join me on that and I bet we run in winter and lose a few tenths.

Hahhah..lets lose some weight!! Yes I do need some more power.So far though just fixing those niggly exhaust leaks as I go has made it feel better and quieter..so there this attention to detail that I am hoping to up a few kws. I think a genuine 155 rwkws should be what will help me reach my goal.A 0-60 mph on gtech in the mid to low sixes will see me into 14s . I am testing all mods with gtech and know where things are working or not.

FPVWEPN · 01-01-2006, 12:48 PM

3 inch is a waste of time and money

stiddy · 01-01-2006, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FPVWEPN

3 inch is a waste of time and money

i really really would like to hear your reason for this..

**Stav** · 01-01-2006, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FPVWEPN

3 inch is a waste of time and money

Stiddy went 14.9 on the 1/4 with just a 3inch exhaust,no extractors in an auxr6hp.

Thats only .35 slower than you....so I think it is us that have wasted our money!!

stockstandard · 01-01-2006, 04:04 PM

Oh god, the 3"+ exhaust mod again.

So one otherwise stock falcon pulled a 14.9 with one. How many heavily modified falcons have done sub 14.5's with 2.5"?

IMO - no point in pulling an otherise good 2.5" system for a 3" system.

EFFalcon · 01-01-2006, 04:27 PM

no, don't listen to us.
just go do it.
3" exhaust, tell us how it goes.

Casper · 01-01-2006, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EFFalcon

no, don't listen to us.
just go do it.
3" exhaust, tell us how it goes.

I'm with John, just do it.. cant wait hear about the cops look on his face when he hears it

:

Racecraft · 01-01-2006, 04:30 PM

and the drone going thru a tunnel will be a treat in itself :P

jonbays · 01-01-2006, 04:56 PM

qtrs are all about POWER to WEIGHT modified by gearing.

So lightest car with the lower and or more gears wins.

The 3' exhaust isn't it. Stiddy's car is the lightest model with a manual 5 speed

mik · 01-01-2006, 05:20 PM

Useless if you get end up pulling your head off you might gain a little more compression from some flat faced valves, i thought of going thinner head gasget on mine when its time for a freshen up ,i dont know how much you can get out of this perhaps one of the clued up guys might be able to shed some light on this,

mik · 01-01-2006, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racecraft

and the drone going thru a tunnel will be a treat in itself :P

i have the 3" drone :yeees:

stiddy · 01-01-2006, 06:08 PM

i love the 3in drone.. and its unreal in tunnels, i give it a stab on purpose when going through one..
im not saying 3inch is the way to go, or to scrap a 2.5in system for one.. im just saying its not a waste of time/money..
like i said in a previous post, with stav's wagon all hes really got left is the head to do..

Sox · 01-01-2006, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonbays

If you really want to see the big numbers a DEV5 cam and race head from JMM will see you getting 175rwkw on Croydens dyno for sure.

With your 3.7 diff and hi stall i will bet that would get you into mid 14's on a good day.

I reckon even now if you ran a cool dry still winter wednesday night WSID street meet you would get a 14.

The problem is the TS mph is still a little low you need more power or less weight.

My new years resolution is to lose some weight so how about you join me on that and I bet we run in winter and lose a few tenths.

Jon is on the money here.

Grab the complete DEV5 head/cam from JMM, and make sure they have shimmed it up for you. Ask them to K-line the guides too, both inlet and exhaust. That will eliminate all sources of ticking.

You now have the diff and convertor to use the high HP benefits from a DEV5.

BTW, a 3" system is most certainly a waste of money. Whilst it 'may' increase power at high revs, it may also lose power at low revs.
A 2.5" system is the best compromise for a 4L street driven 6 pack.

Rick.

jonbays · 01-01-2006, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sox

Jon is on the money here.

Grab the complete DEV5 head/cam from JMM, and make sure they have shimmed it up for you. Ask them to K-line the guides too, both inlet and exhaust. That will eliminate all sources of ticking.

You now have the diff and convertor to use the high HP benefits from a DEV5.

BTW, a 3" system is most certainly a waste of money. Whilst it 'may' increase power at high revs, it may also lose power at low revs.
A 2.5" system is the best compromise for a 4L street driven 6 pack.

Rick.

My new years resoluton stop trying to second guess the JMM team and just buy the bloody DEV5 head and cam. watch out useless!

stiddy · 01-01-2006, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sox

BTW, a 3" system is most certainly a waste of money. Whilst it 'may' increase power at high revs, it may also lose power at low revs.

Rick.

maybe you should run this past JMM, i spoke to Jim about it.. same with Spiro.. see what they say..

the 3inch has only gained power.. i have a manual and as for a 'loss' in power at lower revs (which i admitt there is a little) it dosnet really affect me.. nor would it affect someone that has a high stall converter in an auto..

rodderz · 01-01-2006, 10:28 PM

What sort of car setup do you have Stav?

You can gain the odd few kw's with heads, porting etc maybe mucking around with different cai or exhaust setups, but a good converter/diff/suspension setup may wipe more off your ET than a few $1000 worth of engine mods

Sox · 01-01-2006, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stiddy

maybe you should run this past JMM, i spoke to Jim about it.. same with Spiro.. see what they say..

the 3inch has only gained power.. i have a manual and as for a 'loss' in power at lower revs (which i admitt there is a little) it dosnet really affect me.. nor would it affect someone that has a high stall converter in an auto..

It will effect everyone.
Stavs car is his daily driven family machine which he has gone on and on and on about how he wishes to keep the bottom end power and flexibilty so he can traffic light drag all and sundry up to 60 or 100k's.
Anyone who has followed his countless posts ****ing about lifter preloads, air box mods, drain pipe induction, shift kits, you name it, will know (or won't know

) what he's after.
A 3" exhaust isn't on that list IMO.

BTW, I have discussed this with Jim from JMM, I also have plenty of hands on experience to know that a 2.5" system is the best compromise for a street 4L.

Stick your head underneath a V8 supercar sometime, you may be shocked to see how small the exhaust is. They are 5L, rev to 7000rpm, and produce over 600hp.

I can't believe how much misinformation gets thrown around this site sometimes.

Rick.

INJECTED_250 · 01-01-2006, 11:09 PM

Stav, id listen to the guys on here. ID be getting the Full DEV package not just a bit of it, All set up and PRe shimmed, Pre spark pluged, PRe Air boxed, Pre every thing, hthat way there is no need to spend countles hours playing with the G-teck to gain .1 of a second trying differnt plugs when all it was was a tail wind making the difference.

Some times u can play with so many things in the end u dont know whats working and whats not... With a compled DEv kit and youre Stall/diff gears, MId to high 14's shouldnt be to much to ask for.
U need more power because of the weight of youre car to get the times u are after, youre MPH just isnt there to get the time u want.
The Exhaust wont give u the times u want, The Dev kit (head) will.
Real mods give real results...

**Stav** · 01-01-2006, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by INJECTED_250

Stav, id listen to the guys on here. ID be getting the Full DEV package not just a bit of it, All set up and PRe shimmed, Pre spark pluged, PRe Air boxed, Pre every thing, hthat way there is no need to spend countles hours playing with the G-teck to gain .1 of a second trying differnt plugs when all it was was a tail wind making the difference.

Some times u can play with so many things in the end u dont know whats working and whats not... With a compled DEv kit and youre Stall/diff gears, MId to high 14's shouldnt be to much to ask for.
U need more power because of the weight of youre car to get the times u are after, youre MPH just isnt there to get the time u want.
The Exhaust wont give u the times u want, The Dev kit (head) will.
Real mods give real results...

You know what...I think this is it...a nice dev head with the dev 4/5 cam should see it at its full potential..

Racecraft · 01-01-2006, 11:33 PM

I wish everyone stopped making excuses for the weight :(

As far as late model Fords go the AU wagon is lighter than most up-spec sedans.

OK his wagon does 15.1, BUT to make the ET less, maybe one should look at the leaf springs? Look at the front to back weight transfer? Is the stall actually helping? The car *should* have the power to run sub 15, with the stallie and 3.7's in a car of that weight it should go harder. I am beginning to think it is a wagon specific problem that some of the ute lads would be better off in assisting than the rest of us.

Sox · 01-01-2006, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racecraft

I wish everyone stopped making excuses for the weight :(

As far as late model Fords go the AU wagon is lighter than most up-spec sedans.

OK his wagon does 15.1, BUT to make the ET less, maybe one should look at the leaf springs? Look at the front to back weight transfer? Is the stall actually helping? The car *should* have the power to run sub 15, with the stallie and 3.7's in a car of that weight it should go harder. I am beginning to think it is a wagon specific problem that some of the ute lads would be better off in assisting than the rest of us.

As far as I am aware he has no wheelspin at the dragstrip, so that means his launch is not the issue (in as much as traction anyhow).
Power is.

Edit: You probably should have a traction problem though, with a high stall and 3.7 gears, your launch should be excellent, and probably easily able to wheelspin, even on the sticky dragstrip.
How much do you stall it up on the line?

Personally I think the 15.1 is a fantastic time, the biggest problem is, like everyone, he just want's more power
No matter what we do, it's never enough, pretty common problem.

Rick.

stockstandard · 01-01-2006, 11:46 PM

Apparently there was lots of wheelspin at the track, but his 2.1 60' vs 15.2 ET tell me traction is not the limiting factor here.

Sox · 01-01-2006, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stockstandard

Apparently there was lots of wheelspin at the track, but his 2.1 60' vs 15.2 ET tell me traction is not the limiting factor here.

Very true.
2.1 60' is easy good enough for a mid 14 ET.
Perhaps it's the guy behind the wheel

:

Rick.

Racecraft · 01-01-2006, 11:52 PM

that maybe true SOx, but unless there is an issue with the engine in the car atm (reguardless of mods). But is it possible that his engine is a dud, as there are good engines I guess there are bad. Surely a "solid" 150 rwkw's with a stallie and 3.7's should see a sub 15 considering he was using slicks for the run?

You were noticed in your absence Sox, you been hiding?

Casper · 01-01-2006, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racecraft

I wish everyone stopped making excuses for the weight :(

As far as late model Fords go the AU wagon is lighter than most up-spec sedans.

OK his wagon does 15.1, BUT to make the ET less, maybe one should look at the leaf springs? Look at the front to back weight transfer? Is the stall actually helping? The car *should* have the power to run sub 15, with the stallie and 3.7's in a car of that weight it should go harder. I am beginning to think it is a wagon specific problem that some of the ute lads would be better off in assisting than the rest of us.

I have to agree, this is not a weight issue. 140+rwkw, 3.7 diff and a histall in an AU (be it a wagon or not) SHOULD be doing more than 15.19. Fact is though that thats all it is doing and the MPH back it up that thats all it could do. Even in perfect weather conditions a 14 was probably not there.
Something is wrong as it is now and before spending more money its probably worth investigating WHY this combination isnt working as well as it should. I get the feeling that just throwing more power type mods at it is not going to yeild the results expected

Sox · 01-01-2006, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racecraft

that maybe true SOx, but unless there is an issue with the engine in the car atm (reguardless of mods). But is it possible that his engine is a dud, as there are good engines I guess there are bad. Surely a "solid" 150 rwkw's with a stallie and 3.7's should see a sub 15 considering he was using slicks for the run?

You would think so.
Didn't someone say the engine has a lot of k's?

Quote:

You were noticed in your absence Sox, you been hiding?

Sorta, been moving house and preparing new property for shed, etc.
It's no where near over yet either

:

Rick.

Casper · 02-01-2006, 09:24 AM

Well, after deleting some posts and having a think about this thread I feel that there really isnt anything more to say.
Its all pretty much been covered in 20 other similar threads and, with the wealth of knowledge on this site, there has been plenty of advice given that should help not just useless but many I6 AU owners.
I cant see this being reexplaind, rehashed and redebated without it getting OT and nasty, as the last few threads removed have already shown.
Useless, just do what you feel is rigth, your money, your car.