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Old 07-03-2006, 09:07 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DentEd XR8
Nothing wrong with the single fan on a viscous hub cooling a V8 (EB/ED) is there?
but its shrouded!!!!.

the problem is whe people run a single fan, without the shroud.... and wonder why it overheats
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Old 07-03-2006, 09:08 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DentEd XR8
Nothing wrong with the single fan on a viscous hub cooling a V8 (EB/ED) is there?

thats what i was thinking when i started the thread. It worked well enough from factory with one. But in the end it was the same price to go for the twin fans.
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Old 07-03-2006, 09:10 PM   #33
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Go get em chookie
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Old 07-03-2006, 09:17 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DentEd XR8
Nothing wrong with the single fan on a viscous hub cooling a V8 (EB/ED) is there?
Nup not at all. Until you take the shrowd off. I ran around for about a month with the shorwd off my EB, it ran a fair bit warmer.
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:03 PM   #35
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I use 524 of these. Also 2 in my intake pipe.



even come in ricer stylz!!!1
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:30 PM   #36
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Yeah the LED ones clearly add rearwheel gigawatts.
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Old 07-03-2006, 11:22 PM   #37
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ing_sm

Last edited by snapnscooter; 07-03-2006 at 11:33 PM. Reason: I can't spell
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Old 07-03-2006, 11:27 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho Chicken
Nup not at all. Until you take the shrowd off. I ran around for about a month with the shorwd off my EB, it ran a fair bit warmer.
That would make you Psycho Goose then wouldn't it......
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Old 07-03-2006, 11:40 PM   #39
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Long story. Involves a clutch fan that wouldn't come off, a hacksaw and small pieces of shroud.
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Old 08-03-2006, 02:04 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho Chicken
Whatever "dick".

Where did you say it wasn't unshrouded? The guy is clearly talking about wacking a single fan from supercheap in. He made no mention of shrouding it.

Your's works, good for you. I know of too many that have had cooling issues to even consider it. And why would you, when Ford have spent the money designing a set up that works.

On an E-SERIES (you know, the ones without the square radiator) a single fan is stupid. Sure it might work, but why would you bother when a twin will work better.
ok so you are saying im stupid for running a single fan? yet my car has never overheated for 2 years! The fan is off a late model twin turbo volvo, if it can cool the volvo it can cool my e-series lol.
And yes they come with the factory volvo shroud.
Why? because i got it much cheaper then the ford twin thermos
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Old 08-03-2006, 03:48 PM   #41
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<$200??? The acctual fan costs more than that!!! Then you have to fit it, and the wiring (2 looms were fitted, as it is a dual stage fan, with a relay neatly hidden under the radiators "egg crate".
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Old 08-03-2006, 04:44 PM   #42
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i payed $50 bucks for my ef/ el thermos. then i got the wiring and davies craig switch, for about $70 buck easly done and runns heaps cooler.
much better!!
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Old 08-03-2006, 06:15 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r3ap3r
<$200??? The acctual fan costs more than that!!! Then you have to fit it, and the wiring (2 looms were fitted, as it is a dual stage fan, with a relay neatly hidden under the radiators "egg crate".
mine were 150 (seccond hand) and ive spent about 30 or 40 on parts for the loom...
yet to fit them
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Old 08-03-2006, 06:17 PM   #44
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I've got a set of EF THermo fans & EF radiator for sale for $140 if anyones interested.
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Old 08-03-2006, 06:43 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eed-250
ok so you are saying im stupid for running a single fan? yet my car has never overheated for 2 years! The fan is off a late model twin turbo volvo, if it can cool the volvo it can cool my e-series lol.
And yes they come with the factory volvo shroud.
Why? because i got it much cheaper then the ford twin thermos
I'm saying running a single UNSHROUDED fan is a stupid idea.
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Old 08-03-2006, 11:49 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r3ap3r
<$200??? The acctual fan costs more than that!!! Then you have to fit it, and the wiring (2 looms were fitted, as it is a dual stage fan, with a relay neatly hidden under the radiators "egg crate".
I was lazy and just did a single fan circuit, but bridged the power & earth wires so that both fans worked at once :P

Relay is floating between the headlight & airbox, as is the fuse. Thermal switch and earth point are attached to headlight mount ;)

Boy she's noisy when the fans fire up!
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Old 17-03-2006, 10:01 AM   #47
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Yeah, I got my ones brand new, coulda got second hand, but only the best for my beast...

Jp
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Old 17-03-2006, 10:02 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghia5L
I was lazy and just did a single fan circuit, but bridged the power & earth wires so that both fans worked at once :P

Relay is floating between the headlight & airbox, as is the fuse. Thermal switch and earth point are attached to headlight mount ;)

Boy she's noisy when the fans fire up!

Yeah, mines as quiet as a cloud, couldn't beleive it as I drove off!!! Thinkin', wheres the noise gone??? I could acctually hear my radio!!!

Jp
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Old 17-03-2006, 10:38 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r3ap3r
Yeah, mines as quiet as a cloud, couldn't beleive it as I drove off!!! Thinkin', wheres the noise gone??? I could acctually hear my radio!!!

Jp
pfft radios are overrated, try driving 1200km to Adelaide with no radio :P
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Old 11-09-2006, 04:18 PM   #50
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Sorry to dig up an old thread,

But I have an ED Fairmont, with EF Thermo fans, and a davies craig thermal switch.

They run fine, except I have it set to NORMAL on the davies craig switch, which means the fans come on at around the beginning of the M on my temp gauge (NORMAL). Now, when cruising around, i find that my temp is usually on about R to M, so my fans are probably on at that time. This means I'm drawing more current from the alternator, and hence more fuel yeh?

The reason I turned it down to NORMAL, and not above that, is when I give my car a bootfull to 5500rpm or so, the temp gauge shoots upto the L in NORMAL, and then slowly starts coming back down once the thermos kick in..

My question is, should the temp shoot up to the L on my temp gauge when I give it a bootfull? If not, do i need a cooler thermostat? And should I turn the switch down to say, below NORM, so that the fans are on earlier?

Cheers,
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Old 11-09-2006, 04:39 PM   #51
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never had that happen to mine at higher engine revs! usually anything above 60km/H it starts to cool my car down regardless of the engine revs.
I have mine set to come on just after the N and hardly come on.
With yours set at M the thermos should kick in and not go any higher, unless someone has adjusted the settings

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Old 11-09-2006, 05:24 PM   #52
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I just spoke to someone, and apparently I have to drill one or two holes in the top of the thermostat, to allow for some cool water to circulate around, so that I don't get too many surges..

Does this sound right?
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Old 11-09-2006, 05:34 PM   #53
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i never had to drill any holes in mine.
what do you mean by surges? heat or voltage drop?
Where did you place your thermostat?


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Old 11-09-2006, 05:42 PM   #54
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Something is wrong with your cooling system - either a blocked radiator (internally or with rubbish in front of the condensor or between the condensor and the radiator) or a stuck thermostat are the most likely reasons..get it looked at.
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Old 11-09-2006, 06:55 PM   #55
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Umm, It was fine until the thermo's went in.. Because now the system is heating up quicker now I think?

Here's another one for ya. In the morning when I take off cold, it slowly warms up as I'm cruising at 100 kays, and when the thermostat opens at around the R to M, the temp gauge goes right back down to below the N.

This gives me the feeling that the sudden rush of cold water from the radiator, is causing a surge of coldness into the engine, causing the decline in coolant temp.

The radiator is fine, I cleaned all the **** out of the front of it when I converted to serpentine..

Does it sound like a dodgy thermostat??
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Old 11-09-2006, 07:17 PM   #56
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yeah, it does sound like the thermostat is sticking.......

change it anyway, they're cheap
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:16 PM   #57
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Yeah, I'll change it tomorrow

Thanks guyd
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Old 12-09-2006, 03:32 PM   #58
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Changed the thermostat today, car runs sweet as now.

I suggest to anyone doing a thermofan conversion, change the thermostat if you can't remember the last time it was changed. Very handy.

Cheers
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