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#1 | ||
Rollin with the Autobots
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 364
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Hey Guys
I have a few things im trying to find out. Thermostats: Whats the stock setting? 80 degrees? Im thinking of changing. Stallies/Torque Converter: Standard is 500rpm, what are people running? Does anyone have anything about 2200rpm? How is it? Air Boxes/Intakes: Besides G&Ds new box done with Caspers car, what else is around? Just out of curiosity. I dont believe my snorkel is in the best spot now with a Boss bonnet on. Electronic Shift Kits: I keep hearing mixed stories about these, is there any Transmission experts out there that can tell me if theyre safe or not? Why all these questions you ask? Well basically my car is majorly sucking at the moment. I have really sluggish take offs, bottom end up until 2500rpm - 3000rpm is a joke. I have a Auto box which appears to be slipping or maybe a torque converter on the way out. Basically its a 4 clyinder in disguise. So far im lead to believe its something with the gearbox or the Unichip tune, but has anyone else got any ideas?
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#2 | ||||||
Boost Addict
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Brisbane
Posts: 1,151
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N12 Pulsar - sold Gen1 Liberty Turbo - sold VP Commodore Turbo - sold LN65 Hilux Turbo - sold EL31 Corolla Turbo - sold Ford AU Ute Turbo - sold Ford AU XR8 Sedan - 5.4l V8 Turbo (in the build) Ford BA XR6T Ute - daily driver Ford FG XR6T Sedan - cruiser do you see a general trend? I DO ![]() Can't live with it, can't live without it! |
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#3 | ||
Moderator
![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kenthurst
Posts: 40,394
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stall converter of 500rpm ... you'd stall when selecting D ... hee hee
I think the stock standard thermostat setting is 92 deg C isn't it (ie: when the guage stops heading to H)
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The Current Stable 2016 SZII TS Territory RWD Petrol The Evolution of the EGA54D utes AU Workshop Build thread of EGA54D B-Series Workshop Build thread of EGA54D 2004 SX TX Territory AWD - Gone but not forgotten 2010 FG XT "The ex-rental" - Moved onto a new home Mechan1k's Flickr Page |
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#4 | |||
Miami Pilot
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,701
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Shift kit is only worth 0.1sec to 400m, so not really going to fix the sluggishness. Take the car to Tuggeranong Transmission and Brakes - they will tell you what's wrong with it. Hey Nudge - what do you expect from a six - you know they can't pull the skin off custard, and now that you've added LPG to the mix, I don't think it could even find the custard! LOL.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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#5 | ||
they call me Tibbo
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,163
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change the diff to 3.7's or 3.9s to fix the go slows, the rest isn't going to make a huge difference for the price you pay..
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#6 | |||
Rollin with the Autobots
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 364
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Basically im going to go through the whole car and change all the possible weaknesses, so it runs right.
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#7 | ||
Moderator
![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kenthurst
Posts: 40,394
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No custard to even have a skin for me to try (will not finish the sentence as it sounds wrong.)
I am making a hair under 100rwkw in my AU EGAS ute ... and it only has 2.5" catback system ... redline filter and snorkel added ... so you have more power than I do.
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The Current Stable 2016 SZII TS Territory RWD Petrol The Evolution of the EGA54D utes AU Workshop Build thread of EGA54D B-Series Workshop Build thread of EGA54D 2004 SX TX Territory AWD - Gone but not forgotten 2010 FG XT "The ex-rental" - Moved onto a new home Mechan1k's Flickr Page |
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#8 | ||
Guest
Posts: n/a
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[QUOTE=JC]
Shift kit is only worth 0.1sec to 400m, so not really going to fix the sluggishness. Take the car to Tuggeranong Transmission and Brakes - they will tell you what's wrong with it. QUOTE] Does Terry still work there? ,he can be very helpful ,looked after my XR's very well ,and drives a ford now and then ![]() |
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#9 | ||
Miami Pilot
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,701
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Yep, Terry and Mark are still there. They are both very helpful guys. I reckon any places that keeps cabs on the road is good enough for me.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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#10 | ||
Fantastic Plastic
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
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With all the above explained pretty much anyways , i'll just add my 2 cents on what maybe to expect from a shift kit , from my experience in older cars anyway- . From what i can tell/feel of the auto in the xr , with the adaptive learning auto anyway, if you drive it around hard for a while then i recon u'll get the 'rough' idea of what it would be like with a shift kit, except it would be changing as hard (how it whacks into the next gear) all the time even when driving it soft with the shift kit. Basically the adaptive learning auto in the XR when booting it feels sotra like the auto setups with shift kits i've had in previous older cars... I havent driven a xr with a shift kit in it , so it could be totally different to what i just explained , so don't quote me on it ! ..lol .. Seeing the newer auto's these days shift alot harder standard anyway , then i wouldn't be suprised if you could expect a bit more than what i just stated above .. I'de also like to hear more from anyone with a shift kit in the xr with the adaptive learning/shift auto. Also as mentioned above , i also noticed with a shift kit that the driveline components took a major beating , especially the universal joints on the tailshaft in my case anyway in the past. But gee they were good
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#11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
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Silly question, but its an auto. So what good is a shift kit. To try to get from park to drive really quickly. I think if you wanted something to shift, should have bought a manual.
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FG2 XR6T KIA Cerato 2022 Kawasaki Z900
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#12 | |||
Fantastic Plastic
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
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#13 | |||
they call me Tibbo
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,163
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#14 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
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Quote:
Anyway, i'm getting off track here.
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FG2 XR6T KIA Cerato 2022 Kawasaki Z900
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#15 | |||
they call me Tibbo
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,163
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Quote:
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Last edited by Racecraft; 29-03-2006 at 01:08 PM. Reason: spelling like a hillbilly |
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#16 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
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Ok I understand.
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FG2 XR6T KIA Cerato 2022 Kawasaki Z900
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#17 | ||
Rollin with the Autobots
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 364
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Ok, Ive had the cat changed. Made a difference, but I still have the sluggish start off - more than the normal. Turns out the dodgy buggers who originally put my exhaust on, left the original 2 1/4 Cat on, so City Custom fixed the lot up. Now its really 2.5".
Next ill be having the gearbox torn apart and serviced. The diff and a major service are getting done with that, inc Injectors, pumps & filters! If the gearbox is in bad shape, the upside is, in goes the shift kit & the stally. The diff is being replaced all together, so I can't wait for that.
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#18 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
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Sounds like some good plans Nudge. Lets hope it helps to solve a few of your concerns
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FG2 XR6T KIA Cerato 2022 Kawasaki Z900
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#19 | ||
Its gone V
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 359
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i would recommend some 3.7 diff gears and an lsd if you havent already got one, my brother has this setup with low series pacie extractors and 2 and 1/2 '' redback, and he is pretty much neck and neck with me besides getting out of the hole :sm_headba thanks to my suicidal clutch.
and look what time i ran and he keeps up very very well. ----------II---------- ----------II---------- ----------II---------- ----------II---------- ----------II---------- ---------\--/--------- ----------V---------- |
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#20 | ||
Fantastic Plastic
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
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Add a nice stall convertor ( 2500 to 3500 rpm ) and 4.11's in the rear and hold onto ya nuts ..lol , really nice acceleration with 4.11's in the rear , allthough on a 1/4 mile you'll prolly find yourself hitting 4th gear ! , weather thats slows ya down a bit or speeds times up a bit depends on the gearing in ya auto, definatelly throws you back in the seat on take off though . Just my 2 cents worth .
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#21 | ||
Rollin with the Autobots
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 364
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hah 4.11's is too high. Im doing 373s and lsd. Stallys they have trouble getting them working above 2200 - according to Terry at Tugs, ill see how we go with that.
Choca has 373s on his EF 6 and it hammers.
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#22 | |||
Fantastic Plastic
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
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Quote:
I've never run/had any lower than a 2500 rpm stall convertor ! , and i've never had a problem with them , most my mates run around 3000 rpm stall convertors . You get what you pay for ! . ![]() The only prob i've known people to have with too large a stall convertor is trying to park the car in a small/tight parking area without shunting other cars ! , imo i personally don't recomend above or around a 3500 stally for general day to day driving, unless you want to have 1 foot on the gas and the other foot ready for the brake permantelly in bad traffic ! . But with all that above said though , i've only personally ever ran them in cars i had v8's in, same with my mates , the only six i have actually driven with a stall convertor was a mates xu1 torana about 12 years back , that had a 2500 stally in it and ran awesome . I've heard of people having bad experiences with them ( out of balance ) , but as i said , you get what you pay for & sometimes you get ripped off too if not carefull . If your happy with 3.73 diff ratio then go for it ![]() ![]()
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#23 | ||||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 12,083
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I think you have the info confused about higher stalls needing you to stand on the brakes at traffic lights. Its the other way around. It takes MORE rpms for them to move off the line (due to the higher slip allowed at lower rpms) therefore the problem is not them trying to move forward at lights but needing a lot more revs to get them moving when they go green.
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Older, wiser, poorer. Now in Euro-Trash. VW Coupe V6 4motion.
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#24 | |||
Fantastic Plastic
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
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#25 | ||
Fantastic Plastic
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
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oh , just occured to me too , the whole time i was on about a high stall with 4.11's , i guess that would make the difference too . ;)
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