Thread Sealer FUEL Fittings

TruBlu351 · 01-01-2007, 10:31 PM

I've finally got around to removing all the dodgy teflon tape from a few fuel line AN fittings.

Just wondering what's the best thread sealer to use (I'm just using this on the fixed tapered fittings).

None of the 4 auto shops I went into had any that specified fuel proof or resistant. Couldn't find anything listed in the Loctite catalogue either. One guy recommended this joining paste goup called "Stag"......but surely there's some specific fuel thread stuff on the market?

Cheers

protd · 01-01-2007, 10:50 PM

i've never used and sealer on tapered fittings for fuel mate and they've never leaked.. never really known anyone to use anything on tapered fittings really as there's no need.. unless I'm lucky..lol..

MNM96 · 01-01-2007, 10:51 PM

Tapered thread fittings, like on Brakes and Fuel lines do not require sealant on the thread, as if tightened well enough, can not leak.

Cheers,
Mike

TruBlu351 · 01-01-2007, 10:54 PM

Well that was easy then. Cheers

xdclevo · 01-01-2007, 11:15 PM

I allways use the loctite pipe sealant 567 (with teflon in it) as it stops any galling of the threads and seals well. It may not need it, but i have allways used it with 100% success(and i sell it so suply is not a problem

: )

Green X · 02-01-2007, 02:40 AM

LocTight 569 if you want to use a sealer on your fuel system fittings, that’s all we use it’s a hydraulic sealant but will not be broken down buy fuel.

**gregaust** · 02-01-2007, 10:59 PM

Same as XD clevo ,loctite 569 sparingly or Wurths do a nice pipe sealant too.

TruBlu351 · 06-01-2007, 01:02 PM

That loctite 569 rocks! I see what you mean by sparingly. Cheers

TruBlu351 · 07-01-2007, 01:31 AM

Ummm? I said it rocked because it looked like someone put some on a few of the new bungs on my engine (white pastey stuff that sets really firm), but.......

I've used some new stuff today and it's now been 12 hours and it's still runny like it came out of the tube!?

Does this stuff have a "use by" date? I noticed the new packet was sun faded like it had been in the shop for about 10 years. Could this cause it to go off and not set? It's supposed to be fast curing.

RIPGMH · 07-01-2007, 01:40 AM

Most of these kind of products (loctite) have a use by date. After a while (couple of years) you'll find they seperate into their base ingredients. AN fittings seal on a tapered face much the same as JIC or a barrel union. The threads don't actually do any sealing except for drawing pressure upon the two mating surfaces, as such they don't require a sealant. Unless your pulling the things apart every weekend I wouldn't bother with a lubricant for the threads, just remember that some of these tapered seals are matched machined meaning you can't just chop and change between male and female components. Generally AN (Army/Navy) are safe to use non-matched sets.

**Charliewool** · 07-01-2007, 03:30 AM

If it's a FLARED fitting.. No locktite, stag or whatever... the sealing faces are metal to metal and compressed by nut pressure. You guys recomending these "goos".. would you honestly use it on brake lines?.. These being double flares?.
If a tapered BSP or NPT thread then Yes.. Loctite fuel resistant thread sealant. If a parallel BSP or NPT thread you use a "dowty", copper or fibre washer

nugget378 · 07-01-2007, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TruBlu351

Ummm? I said it rocked because it looked like someone put some on a few of the new bungs on my engine (white pastey stuff that sets really firm), but.......

I've used some new stuff today and it's now been 12 hours and it's still runny like it came out of the tube!?

Does this stuff have a "use by" date? I noticed the new packet was sun faded like it had been in the shop for about 10 years. Could this cause it to go off and not set? It's supposed to be fast curing.

I know the one you have used,Ive tried em all in my trade,the best by FAR is called "lokseal" its in a grey tube,made in Italy,you will find it at a plumbing supplies like Reece or Tradelink,with this stuff even half a turn of a thread is good enough,it will go hard with friction..

xbgs351 · 07-01-2007, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charliewool

If it's a FLARED fitting.. No locktite, stag or whatever... the sealing faces are metal to metal and compressed by nut pressure. You guys recomending these "goos".. would you honestly use it on brake lines?.. These being double flares?.
If a tapered BSP or NPT thread then Yes.. Loctite fuel resistant thread sealant. If a parallel BSP or NPT thread you use a "dowty", copper or fibre washer

I also know that they use teflon tape for tapered BSP or NPT at the Shell refinery.

xbgs351 · 07-01-2007, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nugget378

I know the one you have used,Ive tried em all in my trade,the best by FAR is called "lokseal" its in a grey tube,made in Italy,you will find it at a plumbing supplies like Reece or Tradelink,with this stuff even half a turn of a thread is good enough,it will go hard with friction..

Or is it anaerobic?

nugget378 · 07-01-2007, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xbgs351

Or is it anaerobic?

No you can leave a puddle of it on the ground for weeks and it will stay liquid,well a paste,it will only go hard once compressed in a thread,it is fine with gas,oils,petroleum solvents and water...

xbgs351 · 07-01-2007, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nugget378

No you can leave a puddle of it on the ground for weeks and it will stay liquid,well a paste,it will only go hard once compressed in a thread,it is fine with gas,oils,petroleum solvents and water...

But if it's on a puddle on the ground it's still exposed to air.

xdclevo · 07-01-2007, 04:27 PM

double post

xdclevo · 07-01-2007, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xbgs351

Or is it anaerobic?

Thats it, it is anaerobic, which means it will only cure in the absence of air. It has nothing to do with compressed. Just wipe off the excess and your done.
Adrian, did you use the 569 red, or the white 567 pipe sealant?
(the red bottle ones are anerobic, that is why you only get 1/2 a bottle from the shop, so it doesnt cure in the container.)

TruBlu351 · 07-01-2007, 04:59 PM

Yeah, I used the 50ml white tube (red writing) 567 with Teflon. (BIG tube for 50ml!!)

I squirted some on some cardboard last night and smeared it around thinly, but it's still quite wet and pastey.

It just wiped all the excess sealant which squeezed out of the threads hoping to find rock paydirt underneath, but it's all still wet and pastey. I pulled the fittings out and it's all the same & it was over 24hr ago since fitting....not sure what "RAPID CURE" on the tube means

:

I've only used it on oil and water bung/temp fittings in the block.

Here's the tech sheet:
http://www.rpipartsdb.com/ds/56707tds.pdf

xdclevo · 07-01-2007, 05:06 PM

(u confused me with saying 569)
The 567 is supposed to stay like that. Stop torchuring yourself, refit with "567" white paste and forget it man. I have been selling and using it for 16 years, i know what i'm on about :evil3:
Have a look on you link about full cure time. More than 72 hours.

TruBlu351 · 07-01-2007, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xdclevo

(u confused me with saying 569)
The 567 is supposed to stay like that. Stop torchuring yourself, refit with "567" white paste and forget it man. I have been selling and using it for 16 years, i know what i'm on about :evil3:
Have a look on you link about full cure time. More than 72 hours.

: my bad! Damn, going blind!

Yeah, just saw the long cure time with the brass fittings.

Someone close this thread so I can stop making a fool of myself! :lookedat:

nugget378 · 07-01-2007, 05:51 PM

It wont cure in the bottle either,which comes full and sealed,it cures almost immediately when compressed,thats how its meant to work..

Green X · 07-01-2007, 06:08 PM

Quote
“If it's a FLARED fitting.. No locktite, stag or whatever... the sealing faces are metal to metal and compressed by nut pressure”

True we use allot of JIC fittings at work on Fuel, Hydraulic, Lube oil systems and we normally use 569 only on the Flared faces as piece of mind.

Cause even know you tighten the Christ out of them sometimes they occasionally leak, and when it can take you 4-8hrs to get to where the leak is the Boss isn’t to impressed when all that was needed was a light application of 569 to the flared face at she sealed perfectly.

xdclevo · 07-01-2007, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nugget378

It wont cure in the bottle either,which comes full and sealed,it cures almost immediately when compressed,thats how its meant to work..

It cures with the "absence" of air, "between close fitting metal surfaces". Compression has nothing to do with it curing, unless you want a carton of Jimmy tins on it?

RIPGMH · 07-01-2007, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xdclevo

It cures with the "absence" of air, "between close fitting metal surfaces". Compression has nothing to do with it curing, unless you want a carton of Jimmy tins on it?

Have to agree its the absence of air that cures it