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01-10-2010, 07:37 AM | #1 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Hey I'm gonna do this on the weekend well have a go anyway. Just wondering if there are any tricks I need to watch out for. Dad flips out about the possibilities of things going wrong. Another friend said it's an easy job and will take a hour to complete.
So I'm a bit lost but still up for the challenge I'm sick of the oil leak |
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01-10-2010, 08:06 AM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: jimboomba
Posts: 4,638
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I replaced the harmonic balancer on mine, with a brand newy cost me 120 bucks.
Best way to get to it would be to remove the radiator and thermos and possibly the front bar, so you have plenty of room to move about and you can see what your doing Then you will need to find a way of stopping the balancer from moving while you tying to undo it, either get some one at the bell housing with a spanner or something to jam the fly wheel so it dosent move, unless theres a locating hole u put something trough which holds it.
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Welder/Fabricator at Beaudesert Exhuast Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors |
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01-10-2010, 08:24 AM | #3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: jimboomba
Posts: 4,638
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Also isnt there a difference between the speedy sleave, as that actualy goes over the shaft to prevent the harmonic balancer from having to much play, not to actually seal it,
You need a front main seal, which is only around 12 to 15 dollar mark. But yeh if you plan to do the sleave as well get a seal as well, I think theres a thread some where ill search for, been awhile since i did the balancer WOOPS, i just rememberd you will also need a HARMONIC BALANCER REMOVAL TOOL, to get the bugger off, Its like a 3 prong thing, the prongs sit in the small groves or slots inside the hamonic balancer and you have a sliding handle. so when you pull the handle back towards your self, the balancer should start to come off, or just use a rubber mallet or something a little more sloid and just slowly tap the balancer for each side and that should do it as well, Slowly lol
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Welder/Fabricator at Beaudesert Exhuast Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors Last edited by frd906; 01-10-2010 at 08:33 AM. |
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01-10-2010, 10:19 AM | #4 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Yeah I have the seal already. And I have a balancer removal tool so. I'll see how we go.
Luckily I've got a 2nd car so if I run into problems I'm not stranded So a speedy sleeve may not fix my problem? |
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01-10-2010, 10:26 AM | #5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: jimboomba
Posts: 4,638
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It will fix it for a while, but it will prelong the life of the balancer for abit longer,
How much movment is there? If i was you id replace the harmonic balancer while its all apart, so you dont have to do it a second time down the track
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Welder/Fabricator at Beaudesert Exhuast Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors |
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01-10-2010, 10:53 AM | #6 | ||
Parts bin special
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Narre Warren, Vic
Posts: 8,276
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While removing the harmonic balancer, if you find you can't get the nut undone, put a socket on it, with a breaker bar leaning against the passenger side chassis rail. Quickly turn it over and switch it off (don't start the car), and it will crack the nut. I know it sounds dodgy, but it sure as hell works!
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Weekender 1964 US Falcon Futura convertible - Rangoon Red 260 Windsor V8, 4 speed manual, LHD, Electronic ignition, Mustang wheels https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11470868 Daily 2014 SZII Territory diesel - basic runabout Previous Cars 1990 EAII Fairmont Ghia - Tickford engine, 5 speed, SVO wheels, bodykit, much more 2000 AUII Fairmont - XR wheels, Ghia interior 2010 FG XR50T ute - XR8 bonnet, Streetfighter intake |
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01-10-2010, 11:50 AM | #7 | ||
Cruising...
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Perth
Posts: 3,819
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^^ Hahaha! Genius!
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FBT '98 BA XT '04 F100 4x4 '82 Subaru Outback '02 |
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01-10-2010, 12:08 PM | #8 | |||
Formally kotevski22
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Shellharbour
Posts: 697
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Quote:
the power steering bracket.if it is a 6 cylinder. |
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01-10-2010, 12:20 PM | #9 | |||
Parts bin special
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Narre Warren, Vic
Posts: 8,276
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Quote:
__________________
Weekender 1964 US Falcon Futura convertible - Rangoon Red 260 Windsor V8, 4 speed manual, LHD, Electronic ignition, Mustang wheels https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11470868 Daily 2014 SZII Territory diesel - basic runabout Previous Cars 1990 EAII Fairmont Ghia - Tickford engine, 5 speed, SVO wheels, bodykit, much more 2000 AUII Fairmont - XR wheels, Ghia interior 2010 FG XR50T ute - XR8 bonnet, Streetfighter intake |
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01-10-2010, 12:43 PM | #10 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Yeah I'm 98% sure it's the balancer. I've herd that's how to crack the nut so I rekn I'll give that a go.
Sounds like a speedy sleeve isn't proven I'll get a balancer. Im feeling pretty confident. I've knocked off work early so I'm gonna start this arvo. |
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02-10-2010, 09:15 AM | #11 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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What type of puller did u guys use? Every puller I've tried doesnt fit. The big 3 claw type won't fit in because my ac condenser is in the way. Suggestions?
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02-10-2010, 09:45 AM | #12 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: jimboomba
Posts: 4,638
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We tried using that one on mine but in the end we used a hammer and slowly tapped it off
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Welder/Fabricator at Beaudesert Exhuast Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors |
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02-10-2010, 12:41 PM | #13 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Didn't want to hear that hahaha. Long screw driver?
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02-10-2010, 02:08 PM | #14 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 38
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Quote:
You only need to remove the intake snorkel and thermo's. |
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02-10-2010, 02:53 PM | #15 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Geelong, Victoria
Posts: 4,470
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Don't use a screwdriver or any other lever. You'll end up pushing and cracking the timing case, big trouble. The genuine puller has special bolts that slot into each posiiton behind the pulley. I made my own puller, using the new pulley as the template. I think 10 mm diameter bolts (16 mm head) were a good fit. Just drill the right bolt holes in a bit of steel and slowly do up the bolts evenly. It was bit fiddly but then you only use it once.
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02-10-2010, 03:24 PM | #16 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: jimboomba
Posts: 4,638
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umm my old balancer never had the location holes nor did my new one
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Welder/Fabricator at Beaudesert Exhuast Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors |
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02-10-2010, 04:00 PM | #17 | |||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Quote:
if it needs to be trimmed on the claws i guess i'll do that to |
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02-10-2010, 04:02 PM | #18 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Geelong, Victoria
Posts: 4,470
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Not holes, the long curved slots, if you look at the back, you will see where the bolt heads sort of locks in. First the bolt head inserts in the wide part of the slot, you move it along the slot and then twist and engage it in the narrow end of the slot (hard to describe, but you need to shape the bolt head to make it work properly). I just copied one I saw somewhere.
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02-10-2010, 04:12 PM | #19 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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the slots that are right next to the centre? you couldn't get an ant in there if you lined it with honey
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02-10-2010, 05:21 PM | #20 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Geelong, Victoria
Posts: 4,470
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The slots are made for a puller.
Like I said, if you look in from the back, you will see where the bolt heads or special shaped puller fingers are suppose to lock in. Buy a new balancer, then buy or make a puller that fits it. If you pull on the outside pulley part of the balancer using a standard puller, you will distort and tear the rubber and ruin the balancer, which is alright if you are replacing it. |
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02-10-2010, 09:21 PM | #21 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Sooooo because I've brought a new balancer what you posted isn't heaps important
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02-10-2010, 09:34 PM | #22 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: jimboomba
Posts: 4,638
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if you cant get it off even with a puller, just uses a rubber mallet, fairly sloid one and slowly go around it tapping it out,
__________________
Welder/Fabricator at Beaudesert Exhuast Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors |
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02-10-2010, 11:50 PM | #23 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Pretty sure I'm going to be doing this anyway. I have a new balancer so I don't ry care what happens to the old one. I was told to be careful of the bearings tho if I chip it out
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03-10-2010, 09:42 AM | #24 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Geelong, Victoria
Posts: 4,470
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Quote:
You can't go slowly around it tapping it out, there is an engine behind it. And of course the fit on the shaft is very precise and very tight, so the balancer has to be pulled off very evenly. Don't be tempted to try and lever it off. And don't forget to put some sealant on the keyway when you install the new balancer. Enough said. Good luck. |
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03-10-2010, 09:50 AM | #25 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Geelong, Victoria
Posts: 4,470
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Hic, double post.
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03-10-2010, 03:14 PM | #26 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 38
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you need a small puller like this one, small enough to fit in your hand. The three 'arms' fit into the 3 slots on the balancer. Use your new balancer to work out how it fits.
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03-10-2010, 06:04 PM | #27 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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I have one of them
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05-10-2010, 09:19 PM | #28 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Ok so I have my 150mm puller but I can't get 3 jaws on it anywhere unless I take out th crank angle sensor. If I take this out is it going to cause any major problems or anything like that? Are there any tips I need to no about taking the sensor out?
If I can get in there I think I can get it off. I'm to scared to leaver it off because I'm scared I'll crack the crank case but I think that's the 2nd most effective way. Also looked on the back of my NEW balancer and there isn't any type of groove can get a photo for proof if you really want. |
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05-10-2010, 10:20 PM | #29 | ||
Formally kotevski22
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Shellharbour
Posts: 697
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Remove sensor just in case you might pull the balancer out on a angle and damage it.
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05-10-2010, 10:24 PM | #30 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Yeah removed that. Balancer is out but.
I broke the TDC marker. This means engine out and new crank case on yeah? |
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