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Old 14-06-2007, 06:49 PM   #1
chich
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Default EF/EL Sump Gasket

Time to replace the sump gasket folks, i'm sick and tired of cleaning spots off the garage floor. Called Fraud and they want $68 (!) for a gasket which i believe is rubber. Another mob quoted $18 but their gasket is cork.

Can someone please confirm what material the standard gasket is made of and where they got one from? Also how difficult is it to change over?

Cheers.

PS: Just realised i posted in the wrong section - my apologies.

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Old 14-06-2007, 07:02 PM   #2
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nah theyre all cork i think. they cork around the sides and at the front and back they are rubber.
cheers josh.
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Old 14-06-2007, 07:06 PM   #3
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I'd love to know too seeing as my gasket is farked too.

From what i've read in this section the engine has got to be removed. If this is true then how much would it cost to get some1 to do it?

Cheers
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Old 14-06-2007, 07:21 PM   #4
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rubber gaskets are standard on EF/EL, trust me you dont want to use cork anyway cause you will be doing the gasket again very soon
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Old 14-06-2007, 07:38 PM   #5
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DO NOT use the CORK gasket.
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Old 14-06-2007, 07:42 PM   #6
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Deffinately get the Rubber one.
Sump gasket change it a large job.... have fun :P
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Old 14-06-2007, 07:43 PM   #7
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What about silicon?
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Old 14-06-2007, 08:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webby_191189
What about silicon?
That came to mind as well... just running a thin bead of silicone around the sump/block. Anyone tried it?
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Old 14-06-2007, 10:05 PM   #9
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Ive done it a couple times on trucks as some dont make gaskets they come out of the factory with silicone. You normaly run a bead all the way around then spread it with your finger so it covers the surface
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Old 15-06-2007, 12:44 AM   #10
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Are you going to pull the engine or drop the K member to do this?
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Old 15-06-2007, 03:02 PM   #11
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To do the sump gasket in mine, I undid the engine mounts and lifted the engine up a fraction. I then replaced the gasket with a cork gasket and ran solastic over the top of the gasket as well. Doesn't leak a drop.

I suggest that you put some thread tape on the sump screws as well.
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Old 15-06-2007, 08:20 PM   #12
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Or if your like me and hate thread tape invest in a little bottle of loctite thread locker. Works so much better than thread tape.
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Old 15-06-2007, 08:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miller
To do the sump gasket in mine, I undid the engine mounts and lifted the engine up a fraction. I then replaced the gasket with a cork gasket and ran solastic over the top of the gasket as well. Doesn't leak a drop.

I suggest that you put some thread tape on the sump screws as well.
Did you unbolt the transmission at all or you just undid the mounts and lifted it a few mm's?
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Old 15-06-2007, 08:35 PM   #14
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i did the sump gasket on my falcon a while ago, you have to drop the k frame down to get the sump out to clean the surfaces, not a very fun job i can tell you that. i used the cork gasket with the rubber u ends, i've never heard of using a rubber gasket on a sump. also apply a sealant such as ultra blue or three bond to each corner of the rubber u ends. they tend to leak through there otherwise, do not use sealant on the cork gasket, it will cause more problems trust me. you can either glue it on or use a sealer such as permetex, i used nothin and have had no problems.
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Old 15-06-2007, 09:18 PM   #15
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you can't of had an e series for long then,,the one piece rubber sump gasket came out on the eb,,and can be used for all e series.
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Old 15-06-2007, 09:46 PM   #16
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well i still have an e series. and im goin from experience, if they did i have never seen it.
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Old 15-06-2007, 09:50 PM   #17
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besides i was recommended the cork gasket and i have never had any probs.
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Old 15-06-2007, 11:10 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chich
Did you unbolt the transmission at all or you just undid the mounts and lifted it a few mm's?
Transmission stayed in. Just put a hook using two bolts where the extractors go, and lifted it up on an angle
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Old 16-06-2007, 12:11 AM   #19
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the cork gasket can dry or warp,,you must be one of the luck ones.
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Old 17-06-2007, 11:00 AM   #20
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Ive never been over keen on using cork gaskets, but if you must use them soak them in water overnight, install them while still damp, and don't use anything to seal them. Oh, and don't tighten the crap out of them.
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Old 18-06-2007, 12:45 AM   #21
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aslong as you dont do what a mate of mine did, drop the K frame, but forget to drain the oil, damn that was funny!



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Old 18-06-2007, 12:54 AM   #22
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Haha even i thought about not doing that and i haven't even changed it yet!
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Old 20-06-2007, 12:13 AM   #23
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Sump gasket is a royal pain in the ***...

Definately use a single piece rubber gasket, instead of the 3 piece alternative..

i did mine by cutting out small crossmember at the front, jacking motor up and changing, then welding crossmember back in and painting... but if i had to do it again:

i cannot stress enough:

REMOVE THE MOTOR

even if you do get the sump out while the motor is in, or jack it up a little, you have to fluke getting the half moons in, and even if you use silicon to hold the bastard in, if it is a cold night you will have a mofo of a time trying to get it to set while you place it up again.. the oil pickup causes most of your issues..

no ****, take the motor out, do your sump gasket and may as bloody well do a timing case gasket and rear main whilst you're at it... check your welchy's..

i wanted to pull my hair out on more than 1 occasion when i did my sump...
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