Temp getting hot

Erich · 11-01-2010, 11:48 AM

Hey Guys

Thoughts on the following. In Adelaide, its been hot - dammm hot. I can drive around normally, in 40 degrees with the AC on and the temp stays as it should between the N and the O on the temp gauge. However, when going up a decent hill (for me, Willunga Hill which is a long way up), the temp will slowly creep up to about the "A", close to the "L" and as I get over the crest, drops down again to normal withing about 1 minute

No water leaks, 40 with AC on, flat/mild incline - temp all ok. Radiator looks fine, was replaced at the car yard when car bought (second hand). Done 90k now, runs great. Anyone had this type of issue? Im thinking standard blockage in rad??

Cheers
Erich

Dave_Obsession · 11-01-2010, 11:58 AM

So you're saying it's creeping up when the engine is under heavy load....have you had the radiator checked for blockages?? Maybe a good radiator flush will sort you out...??

Erich · 11-01-2010, 12:10 PM

yup - only on a decent load going up hill, and only when it seems quite warm. Most other days, its fine on the same hill. AC is off as well

Not checked yet - just seeking thoughts here. May replace the plastic sided genuine with a "real" radiator ;)

bodes-sh · 11-01-2010, 12:12 PM

is there any crap between the radiator and the air con condensor is there? leaves or anything?

also, how long does the motor normally take to warm up from cold? could be a sticking thermostat

Erich · 11-01-2010, 12:21 PM

no crap - very clean

Takes about 6 to 8 mins to come up to temp - just like normal. On a std 25 - 30 degree day, the temp is fine even on the hill, only gets hot on the hottor days and ONLY going up a decent hill (and it shouldnt). However, travelling around adelaide etc, even at traffic lights with AC on in 40 degrees - it doesnt move from where it "normally" should be

lofty · 11-01-2010, 12:43 PM

Hi Erich. I've had exactly the same issue. I replaced my radiator and thermostat recently, and I was pleased with how stable the temp was, including towing. Then the other day in 40 deg I was coming up the freeway to Crafers - this is a long climb - and saw the needle rising rapidly. I was in 3rd (auto) and had the boot well in to hold 100kph, but when I backed off a bit the needle started to come down. When I got over the top, it came straight back to normal and stayed there. Next time I have to climb in the heat I'll try it on petrol. Someone in the LPG forum said rich gas mixtures generate more heat than lean ones.

PS: No coolant was lost, so I guess it didn't boil.

Erich · 11-01-2010, 12:51 PM

cheers - same type of issue. Normally, temp is VERY stable

I will try petrol today as well up the hill - as its +40 again today

Erich · 13-01-2010, 11:44 AM

Came up the hill the other day (changed to petrol 5 mins b4) in 41 degrees temp - went ok. Put on air cond 1/2 way up - normal temp - will monitor

Mr Hardware · 13-01-2010, 12:35 PM

I have the exact same experiences Erich - i believe this is fairly normal.
Car will sit all day just a smidge on the good side of O of normal, being belted in traffic with A/C on on a hot day etc.
Hit the toowoomba range, pow, i'm looking at the M or A. This is the only time it ever, ever wavers from its position at O. I do this run twice a year, and i've tried everything. Turn the A/C off, turn the heater on, switch it back to petrol, all the same result. The only thing that seems to change it is if i take my foot off the accellerator. I don't really think the motor getting a little hot for a few minutes is really going to hurt it too much, just so long as you stay well away from the red zone.

Erich · 14-01-2010, 01:24 AM

Cheers there - then its good to see it "not abnormal" so I will monitor

Didnt want to go the expense of new rad cos it was done (flush) 12 months ago at a rad place who said all was good

Back to enjoying the car

saber · 14-01-2010, 10:47 AM

To be honest, what your describing sounds completely normal.
It takes more effort to maintain a set speed going up a hill then it would on a flat road.
So if you want to go 80km/h up a hill, you’ll have to push the pedal down further, creating more load on the engine.
More load on engine = increase in temps.
I would be more concerned if the temp didn’t drop after the hill climb!!!

Erich · 14-01-2010, 03:53 PM

Ive been up the same big hill on 40 degree days with AC on its been on normal temp. Only done it 4 times now (and only on hot days) but looks like it is "characteristic" of the vehicle.

My wife's Lantra temp doesn't move, a/c on and been doing it for 5 summers. My EB II never moved so much either

Thanks all for the info - im a bit more comfortable with it now

sooty43 · 15-01-2010, 01:50 AM

In december I did a trip from Melb. to Broome via Perth. On the northern part of the trip I had over heating problems too. The daily temps. ranged from 35 to 45 over a period of three days driving. Before I left I installed a new radiator, Free-flowing exhaust system,discarded the catcon.{its on lpg alwaysand put in a thermostat 10 degrees lower. In the Kimberlys when temps. were between 40and 45 the temp. gauge went to 220F and only when I removed the grill did it drop to 210F. Logic says the AU radiators are too small. Wotcha reccon? Right or wrong?

**Mechan1k** · 18-01-2010, 04:38 AM

Had issues like that prior to getting rid of the AU.

I had replaced the radiator with a twin core item ... replace the thermostat ... replaced the water pump ... flushed the cooling system ... cylinder head temp sensor ... everything.

On a hot day ... it would do it under load on hills.

It never used to do.

Could never find out what it was.

Kryton · 18-01-2010, 04:49 PM

Anyone tried replacing the radiator cap?

Mr Hardware · 18-01-2010, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Anyone tried replacing the radiator cap?

Yep did that when i changed my leaking header tank. No different.

lofty · 18-01-2010, 08:20 PM

Could it be there's still a little air in the system?

Mr Hardware · 18-01-2010, 08:25 PM

I highly doubt it. I would have experienced other issues before this if so, ie gas converter freezing etc.

sooty43 · 19-01-2010, 09:04 PM

If you notice, the large air-intake on the front of the car is at the bottom of the radiator and that is the coldest part of the water flow. The top part of the radiator where the hot water flows needs the greatest air flow. That is why the water temp. dropped 10 degreesF when I removed the grill. I have my own custom grill with fine square mesh wire and it works very well. I have also installed a capillary tube temp. gauge that shows the temp. precisely cos. the standard Ford gauge is notoriusly inaccurate.

**Mechan1k** · 19-01-2010, 09:14 PM

The standard Ford gauge takes readings from the hottest part of the engine .... fro the Cylnder Head Temp sensor ... at the rear driver's side of the engine.

When i had issues ... I found this area seemed to really heat up ... whereas the rest of the cooling system seemed to be fine ... it was only around the CHT sensor that got hot.

I tested this many a time on the dyno ... we never could find the reason for it ... even after an engine swap it still did it ... even after 2 different Head Temp sensor were used.

We checked the new engine an all water galleries were clear of obstruction. The original engine had a head that would not part with the block ... so it was just easier to replace the engine.

Ford put the sender at the back of the engine block after numerous issue with E-series blowing head gaskets when the temps were reading normal from their senders which were located in the thermostat housing at the front of the engine.